Jason and Angela's Trip of a Lifetime

EasyCruise Greece: Just how Easy is It?

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:00:00 GMT

This was the day we had been waiting for. Months before we left home, I came across an offer I couldn't pass up. EasyCruise, from the same folks who brought us EasyJet, EasyCar, EasyBus, EasyHotel, and even EasyInternet, were starting a new week long cruise route of the Greece Islands and coast. Now for those of you not familiar with the “Easy” line of travel options, they offer low cost no-frills travel deals all across Europe and at $20 per night per person, this cruise was definitely not the exception. We had been joking with people for months about what our floating garbage barge would look like and that it would be nothing more than a floating hostel but nonetheless, we were still optimistic.

Now traveling still proves to be a bit of an adventure and just getting to our cruise ship proved to be the case. One of the ways EasyJet keeps their costs down is that they typically fly out of smaller more remote airports. For instance, when we flew from Milan we actually left out of the much smaller more remote airport an hour away in Bergamo. So we should have known something was up when our itinerary indicated Marina Zea at the Port of Piraes as our embarkation point. Not knowing any better many of our fellow passengers made the trek in the rain by foot from the Port to the Marina. Angela, on the other hand, has become much wiser. Although a bit confusing, she insisted that we take the bus and am I glad she did. Twenty minutes later our bus driver gave us the signal to hop off at the Marina Zea stop. Standing in the rain we quickly surveyed the massive marina for anything that resembled a cruise ship. Now there were plenty of big boats but most were the overly lavish yachts... no cruise ship. After running around for a while (in the rain), we finally found it. After another twenty minute walk we finally climbed the stairs and boarded our new home. EasyCruise tip 1: Don't walk, don't take the bus, just pay the five dollar cab fare from the port metro station.

Boarding the boat we went through the customary bag search. No external food or alcohol allowed on board! We had thought about smuggling some “supplies” on board but chose not to at the last minute. Guess it was a good idea as the only way we got Angela's granola bars on board was because she suddenly became temporarily diabetic. EasyCruise tip 2: Wait until your first excursion before you try to smuggle stuff on board. They only check you when you first board the boat.

So how was the ship? Not bad really. We were on the original EasyCruise One vessel which apparently used to be for the somewhat rich and famous. Well after some pretty serious remodeling (i.e. removing everything good and cutting the rooms in half), we were left with the basic necessities. We had a hot tub, bar, restaurant, gym and a couple of sitting areas. The rooms themselves were far from spacious with about 8 inches between the wall to wall mattresses that lie on the floor, but with a little creativity and some careful packing it wasn't too bad. EasyCruise tip 3: When not sleeping, stack your mattresses. You'll have plenty of walking around room and a couch to chill on.

One of the best things about EasyCruise is that unlike most of the “big” cruise lines, we spent so much more time in port than out at sea. Each night our ship would pull away around 3:00 AM and we'd pull into our next destination around 9:00 AM. Every day we were in a new location - locations that we never would have made it to otherwise. The only downside to this is there isn't really much time to just relax. Our EasyCruise experience wasn't really for those wanting to chill and be lazy. By the time we were done, we were exhausted. EasyCruise tip 4: Rest up before and after the cruise. Don't expect much downtime.

Prior to leaving for our cruise, we were invited to sign up for the daily excursions at each of the historical sites, but being the seasoned (and budget conscious) travelers we are, we decided to pass. After all the excursions actually cost more than the cruise itself. We thought we were being pretty smart, but the morning we pulled into the port at Ancient Corinth, we saw just about everybody board the bus for the organized tour. Uh oh!!!! What had we done?!? After wandering around town for a while in search of the bus station, we learned that not only are the bus stops very poorly marked, so are the buses. Our little independent exercise was proving to be a bit of a disaster. So what do you do when everything starts falling apart? TAXI!!!!! Twenty minutes later, we were in Ancient Corinth and had caught up with the organized tour. Disaster averted. But it could have been worse, we could have been like the two Canadian backpackers who walked the 10 miles. EasyCruise tip 5: With a little planning, you can skip most of the excursions and see it on your own. The key is doing a little planning. You'll spend some money, but it was still much cheaper and in most cases more rewarding that following the tour guides around.

That morning at Ancient Corinth we ended up teaming up with a group of friends who were also on our boat. Since they were obviously seeing the sights on their own and had actually done a little planning (unlike us), they seemed like a good and fun crowd to hook up with. We actually spent the rest of the week with our new friends Mike, Erica, Brian, Tara, Mark, and Jose. We later teamed up with two other girls, Lisa and Traci. Without a doubt the best part of our entire EasyCruise experience was making new friends. We spent the rest of the week seeing the sights, playing a few games, and having more than a few drinks. EasyCruise tip 6: It's all about the friends you make. There were more than a few people on board who just failed to make friends. You couldn't help but feel that we were having a bit more fun than they were.

In short, our EasyCruise experience was a blast. It might not be for everyone – after all it isn't called FancyCruise or LuxuryCruise for a reason – but it was a great way to spend a week meeting new people and seeing a few places that were just too far our of the way to do it on our own. EasyCruise is far from perfect as the bar was almost always closed and the staff didn't quite have it together, but all in all it was a great bargain. But you might want to hurry!!!! We wouldn't be surprised if EasyCruise soon becomes as ancient as the sights they take you to visit. The idea is solid, but their laid-back service and inability to squeeze money out of the passengers may mean they won't be around for long. EasyCruise tip 7: Don't wait. This ship might sail for the last time without you!

Athens, Greece: 2 days and 2 Souvlakis Is Plenty

Sat, 08 Dec 2007 22:00:00 GMT

ALE: Riding into town on the bus from the airport I was shocked at the fact that I felt like I was back in Los Angeles. Athens was so much more developed than I had imaged. There were huge grocery stores, fast food restaurants and Starbucks on almost every corner. We came prepared to spend days on end scouring the city and hiking hills such as Likavitos Hill. We had allowed ourselves plenty of time before and after the cruise, so seeing everything could luckily be done at our own leisurely pace. But once we dug a little deeper into what we really wanted see we were soon pleased with the fact that we were going to have many days to sleep in and do nothing!

Syntagma Square, Monastiraki and the Plaka are the three main areas of interest, in my opinion. All three areas are within walking distance from each other and while wandering around you can take in all of the main sights and also enjoy the various ruins that are sprinkled all throughout these areas. The Acropolis sits impressively up on top of a hill above Monastiraki and the Plaka. One thing we have realized is that something is always covered in scaffolding. This time ALL of the Acropolis was covered in scaffolding. Even so far as the Temple of Athena Nike was completely torn apart with only bits and pieces put back together. But with the amount of people at the Parthenon, I'm not sure which was more of an inconvenience, the scaffolding or all of the people who were in my way when I wanted to take pictures! At night you can sit at one of the many cafes and admire The Acropolis all lit up. But be prepared for many people, including little kids, trying and sell you everything from wooden giraffes to head lamps. If you sit closer to the door of the restaurant you may be safe!

Back in Los Angeles I eat a lot of Greek food. I love Greek food so needless to say I was very excited to come to Greece and eat. I now know that our version of Greek food is a mish mash of Greek, Lebanese and Turkish. Hummus for one thing is not Greek; which I was extremely disappointed to find out. It's Lebanese. Who knew?!! I tried the fava bean dip thinking it would be a good substitute, but not so much. We also found we got tired of Greek food very quickly. Don't get me wrong, the food was great but there are only so many souvlakis (meat cooked on a skewer) one cat eat. If you spend a decent amount of time in Greece, like we did, you may find you'll want to move on just to eat another cuisine.

Athens is an interesting city. Because it is massively huge, you may book more days than you need to sight see but in reality we only needed 2 days maybe 3 tops because everything is so close together. Sure you can spend your extra time shopping. There definitely is plenty of it. Just know that Athens is much like Italy where most everything closes for it's own little “siesta.” Or if they do not close for a siesta then they close up shop at 5. I think that is what we were most surprised by. Here you are in a major touristed area of town and the shops close at 5. Forget about shopping on a Sunday, nothing is open. The exception would be the tourist driven shops in Monastiraki. They have some great stuff but haggle, the starting prices are a rip off.

We both enjoyed Athens but we definitely came out of it with different opinions. I think it is a must see. Between the ruins of the Acropolis, Ancient Agora (the civic center below the Acropolis), the National Archeology Museum that holds all of the trinkets found at these ancient sites, strolling through the National Gardens and watching one of the strangest changing of the guards I have ever seen there is plenty to keep you busy and satisfied. Jason on the other hand was a bit disappointed. He thought it would be more like Rome with endless ancient marvels. But after stopping at the few main attractions, he was ready to move on. Guess you can't please everybody all the time. :)

Angela

Belgrade, Serbia: A Little Rough Around the Edges

Sun, 25 Nov 2007 22:00:00 GMT

ALE: Our trip to Belgrade was more of a stop over than a destination. By working our way down south from Croatia to Montenegro we found ourselves in this strange area of the world where getting to Athens, our next destination, proved to be a bit difficult. Upon further research, the cheapest way to do it from Montenegro was to fly through Belgrade. We figured if we have to fly there anyways, why not stay one night and check it out. One night was really all we needed to get a feel for the place.

Generally when we are looking at hostels, location is a big factor. This time was a little different. We ran across one with free airport transfers and free laundry and we booked it instantly so we never really got the feel of which part of the city it was located. After being picked up and brought back to the hostel we thought we would do a bit of wandering around and grab some lunch. Our hostel was unfortunately out of maps so we were sent out into a very big city with only bus numbers that took you to the center of town. The next problem was money, we didn't have any Dinars, the Serbian currency. To ride a bus you need a ticket, to buy a ticket you need money. Although the woman at the hostal desk said just to get on the bus that they probably won't check for tickets we decided against it. It shouldn't be too hard, there are ATMs all over the place. Not in Serbia! After heading into the direction Jason felt was towards the center we ran into the Sveti Sava. It is the biggest Orthodox Church in Europe. Construction was halted by Hitler years ago and with the lack of money it is now slowly being completed. Although the outside is completely finished the inside is still a construction zone. It is a beautiful white church outside with all of it's big onion domes that stand out among the dingy gray block buildings that surround it. You walk inside and your jaw just drops when you see the size of it. Even without all of the Frescoes painted on every inch of the walls, it is still quite a sight.

Eventually we ran across a money exchange and turned our Euros into Dinars. Walking back towards our hostel we quickly realized we had passed 3 different money exchanges but we just didn't know the Serbian word for it. The trials and tribulations of traveling the world! We had a yummy lunch at a local pub and decided it was just too cold and misty to be outside and headed back for our hostel. Stopping at a grocery store along the way, we stocked up on hot chocolate, cheese, pate and wine and spent the evening inside infront of the two free computers hoping the weather would be better tomorrow.

After reading our guidebook there was really not much in Serbia I felt I needed to rush out and see. Part of me also felt that Serbia was along the lines of Russia, a place I didn't entirely feel I was supposed to be in. Seeing as the last bombings took place in 1999, that was a little too close for me. But we have recently met some people who had just been there and said it was a perfectly safe place and getting out and walking around was something I intended on doing before we got back on a plane.

The first set of buildings we ran across were two buildings that have not been touched since the 1999 bombings. They are two red brick buildings, 5 or 6 stories high that have chucks missing from them. Huge gapping holes ripped right through them. A smaller building next door still has holes in it from artillery shells. I am not quite sure why Serbia has chosen to leave this set of buildings they way they are. Maybe to remind the citizens what they have gone through to be who they are today or how lucky they are to live in the world they now live in. I know it made me very grateful for who I am and the world I live in.

Next we wandered to the Citadel and the old Fortification which some of it is still intact and the other half is now a big green park overlooking the Danube River. We walked down the main shopping street and found ourselves back at the train station much earlier than we needed to be waiting for our bus to the airport. Honestly, Belgrade was not a place we would go back to. It is a huge city filled with old gray block buildings at every turn. The pollution is almost suffocating if you are walking through the streets. It just didn't have much to offer a traveler. Serbians have a long sorted history which if you stay at the Green Garden Hostel where we stayed the extremely nice owner will explain it all to you in 2 hours like he did to Jason. But you can read about that online while you are sipping a Mai Tai on a beautiful clean beach elsewhere. Like I said, Belgrade was a way to get to Athens cheaply and for that, it was worth it.

Kotor, Montenegro: To Boldly Go Where No Man (or woman) Has Gone Before

Sun, 25 Nov 2007 07:00:00 GMT

JCP: Having barely heard of Montenegro, I was incredibly intrigued by the images of beautiful beaches, walled cities, and striking mountains that descend into the sea. The photos of paradise contrasted with the imagery of what was just recently the site of war torn former Yugoslavia made the trip even more of a must do.

Leaving Croatia, we caught the daily 10:30 bus south from Dubrovnik towards the border. Until just recently, taking the bus from Croatia to Montenegro meant changing buses at the border. Fortunately, transportation between the two countries has improved significantly and we were quickly whisked through the border after a quick stamp in the ol' passport.

Working off of advice from Tony, the owner of our shared apartment in Dubrovnik, we were on our way to Kotor. Although the Montenegrin coast is relatively short, the bus to Kotor takes you along the Bay of Kotor which is home to some of the largest fjords within Europe. Most of the bay is surrounded with steep rocky mountains that crash down to meet the sea creating dozens of smaller bays and lagoons. A truly impressive sight! As the road snakes its way along the coast though, I soon found that the bus ride is not for those with a weak stomach. Just as I thought I was going to be sick, the bus pulled into Kotor. Nestled on a small finger-like projection of water surrounded by the characteristic rocky mountains, we found the old town, or Stari Grad, of Kotor.

Up until now, we've always been able to find accommodations online. Not so with Montenegro. Finding virtually nothing via the websites we typically use, we decided to wing it. Just like in Dubrovnik climbing off the bus, we were immediately approached by a group of people trying to rent out rooms, or sobes, to the handful of tourists on our bus. Not even having enough time to grab our bags, Angela quickly dismissed the lady who approached her as I did the same to the guy who stopped me. After a quick regroup and having no place to stay, we approached the women and asked to see the photos of her apartment. We were a little surprised with the man who approached me quickly pulled them from the woman's hand and started describing the property. Apparently they were a mother/son team. Quoting a price of only 20 Euros for a double room and promising that we could decide after we see it, we made our way with the family to their apartment. Although the building was a bit run down and the apartment was obviously under construction, the beautiful bedroom that overlooked the edge of the old town sold us immediately. And after Angela saw the giant bath tube, the deal was sealed. For the price, you couldn't beat this place or its location. With the weather being a bit dreary, this was a great place to just relax.

Just as everywhere else along the Adriatic this time of year, most of the tourists had already left which was just fine with us. Walking the narrow damp streets of the amazingly well preserved old town was a real treat. Kotor in the fall is a pretty sleepy city. People spend their days sitting at sidewalk cafes, then again, they spend their nights there too. It's obvious that Kotor during the summer months is a lot busier, but in the fall there seem to be more cafes and bars than people. If a place had more than 6 people in it, it was happening!

It wasn't until our second night that we got a roommate in our apartment. Yodiko was a quiet Japanese girl on a solo two-month journey throughout the region. Although very sweet, she stayed mostly to herself. Only moments after she arrived to the apartment, another girl stopped by to inquire about available rooms. Elaina, from Sacramento, was working her way west across Europe in hopes of eventually catching a sailboat from the Canary Islands back towards the US. Although the apartment was full, we would find ourselves running into her several times later at the Internet cafe. It's always nice when you find other interesting travelers to swap stories with.

Although Kotor lies on the banks of the bay, the main attraction is the old abandoned fortress that climbs along the mountain behind the city. The walls of the fortress are largely intact and stretch up and around the mountain's edge for more than four kilometers. Hiking the wall meant that Angela and I were in for a bit of a workout. Stopping along the way to take in the amazing views from high above was well worth the climb. We even found a small abandoned church hidden away behind the fortress. Because so many of the buildings we've seen on this trip have been painstakingly preserved, I really enjoyed seeing this old church left to weather the elements by itself. Promising before I left to not let anything happen to Angela, we stopped our climb just short of the top of the fortress. Faced with an old rusted bridge across a 30 foot deep rocky pit, we figured the view was just as good from where we were. Plus it reeked of goat poop!

When we arrived in Kotor we thought we'd only stay for a couple of days but after talking to the other travelers we'd met, we decided to make Kotor our base camp and do day trips from there.

The next day we caught the bus to Budva for only 2.50 Euro. We had heard that Budva was a bit more touristy than Kotor. After an earthquake that leveled the city in the 70's, the entire town was rebuilt with the tourist dollar in mind. Criticized as being fake looking, we had limited expectations. The bus ride over and through the hills were nice. Dropping us off at the bus station about half a mile from the old town, we casually strolled along the beach towards the walled city. In contrast to Kotor, which feels very authentic, Budva lived up to its reputation of being a bit made up. Although very much worth the visit, we were glad that we had made Kotor our home. We did, however, really enjoy the little beach side cafe just outside the city walls. We could have easily wasted away several days sitting, enjoying a drink on the beach, and watching the sun go down.

Arriving back in Kotor, we were greeted by our new neighbor. Yodiko was gone and Kate had arrived. Coming from Melbourne, Australia, Kate is an artist in the midst of relocating to Europe. Having spent the last two months in Germany and Turkey and was working her way back towards Italy and maybe on to Spain. After running into her in the supermarket, we invited her to use the apartment's kitchen that we had negotiated in our haggling with the owners. The rest of the evening was spent chatting until late in the night about places we've been, where we were heading, and the like. The following night, we thought we'd invite her out for a drink in one of the local pubs, but after a glass of wine at the apartment we found ourselves quickly falling right back into long stories that seemed to consume the night.

With our time in Montenegro coming to an end we needed to start making our way towards Belgrade, Serbia so that we can catch our flight to Athens. The next morning we were off to the beach town of Bar where we'd stay for a night before catching an early train to the Podgorica airport for our flight to Belgrade. We had originally intended on staying in the capital city of Podgorica, but with accommodations being more expensive than many of the western European cities that we'd visited, we came up with Plan B. After all, traveling is about being flexible. We're still learning.

Dubrovnik, Croatia: Rain Rain Go Away

Sun, 25 Nov 2007 07:00:00 GMT

JCP - It wasn't too long before we left Los Angeles that we met up with some of Angela's friends and coworkers who wanted to wish us well before we left. Then again they may have just wanted to use us as an excuse to get together for a drink on the company dime. Regardless of the reason, we were game. Fortunately for us, I ended up in a pretty deep discussion with one of Angela's friends who just happened to be from Croatia. To be honest, I didn't really know much about the country. I knew roughly where it was and that up until recently it had been part of a region plagued by war. Surrounded by notorious countries like Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, part of me was a little reluctant to consider Croatia as a vacation destination. But trying to keep an open mind, my new friend and I talked late into the night about the new Croatia and the changes under way there. Much of our conversation was focused not on the bustling capital city of Zagreb, but on what is arguably Croatia's most beautiful city, Dubrovnik. Nestled in the narrow coastal region of southern Croatia, Dubrovnik has rightfully so become a tourist mecca.

Determined to see what Dubrovnik held in store, Angela and I made it a “must-see” stop on our journey. Beginning to grow a little tired from all the traveling, we looked forward to relaxing in what had been described as a coastal paradise.

The bus from Split to Dubrovnik was relatively uneventful. Well, that is if you consider passing through Bosnia-Herzegovina uneventful. Apparently after the breakup of Yugoslavia, a small stretch of land along the Adriatic was awarded to Bosnia-Herzegovina in order for them to have a port. Oddly enough, this stretch of land physically cuts Croatia into two pieces and to travel from Spit to Dubrovnik, you actually pass through a small section of Bosnia. You could tell the second you crossed the border that you were in a different country. Whether it was the condition of the roads, the houses, or the businesses that line the highway, something was different. I hate to say it, but I think we both breathed a small sigh of relief we we crossed back into Croatia.

Arriving in Dubrovnik was just like our guide book described it. As we exited the bus after it pulled into the very modern bus station, we were mobbed by people trying to rent us accommodation. Sobes, or private rooms for rent in people's houses are apparently very common along the coast of Croatia. I'm sure this also happens in Split, but since we arrived there by car, this was our first encounter with this. We watched as several of the other bus passengers disappeared with some of the hopeful renters. Luckily enough we already had a room booked in a very well recommended apartment in town. Alas, the all too familiar problem remained, “Where do we go now?”

Following our somewhat cryptic directions we headed towards town. “Turn left after the Fish Market” was the plan. Not feeling too terribly comfortable with this approach and with the rain starting to come down, we ducked into a shop to ask for directions. On the right track we pressed on. We found the Fish Market easily enough, but after turning left we encountered a new challenge. 300+ steps straight up the side of the “mountain” lie before us. Half an hour later and a tad bit sweaty we made it to the top of the stairs to find what has to be the best apartment we've had on our entire trip. For once we were not led astray.

Unfortunately, the rain that greeted us when we first arrived at the bus station decided to stick around for the next couple days. Initially we thought our time in Dubrovnik was going to be a total bust. When we weren't sipping tea in our guest kitchen with John and Mary Carol, an older adventurous couple from Hawaii who were staying in the room next door, we were donning our rain gear and heading down to the local bakery or supermarket. By the third day, the weather started to clear and we got our first real glimpse of exactly how beautiful Dubrovnik could be so we decided to stick around for a few more.

Now we've seen a lot of “old towns” throughout Eastern Europe and we had heard that Dubrovnik's was really something special, so as we made our way through the amazingly well preserved (actually reconstructed after the Yugoslavian military bombed it in 1991) gates of the city, our expectations were pretty high. Dubrovnik was absolutely beautiful. With its high walls, picture perfect streets, and narrow alleyways, it was almost as if we were in a fairytale city. Trying to describe it is near impossible. The pictures will just have to speak for themselves, but the views from high above the city as we walked along the city walls overlooking the crashing waves of the Adriatic are absolutely amazing. It is no wonder that the streets are typically filled with cruise ship passengers by day, but by early evening the once crowded streets became virtually empty.

Now other than meandering through shops and taking in the panorama from high on top of the walls, there wasn't really a whole heck of a lot to do there, which was fine by us. We hiked along the peninsula and enjoyed strolls along the harbor. Being that the thongs of tourists that visit during the summer were long gone, we can only imagine how packed it must be during the busy months. But the serenity of the off season came at a cost. Other than a few slightly insane sun bathers, the water and beaches were just way to cold to really enjoy.

With our leisurely stay in Dubrovnik coming to an end, we decided to take a quick little afternoon trip to the town of Cavtat. For only a couple of dollars, we hopped on a city bus for a 45 minute ride along the rocky coast to the sleepy little town. Note: The town may have been sleepy when we were there, but it had all the signs (i.e. harbor cafes, tourist boat rides, etc.) of a major tourist stop in the middle of summer. With our little hike ending with a beautiful sunset over the water, we brought our visit to Croatia to an end.

Visiting Croatia was a real eye opener for us. For a country associated with conflict as recent as the 90's, the Croatian people have done a wonderful job helping visitors forget about the recent suffering. Dubrovnik and Split, both amazing towns with amazing history, are creating a promising new future for themselves. I imagine that pretty soon, the negative connotations will be gone and the rest of the world will begin to think of here as the beautiful vacation destination that it is today.

Split, Croatia: The Dalmatian Coast

Mon, 19 Nov 2007 22:00:00 GMT

Having taken a train from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Zagreb, Croatia, we had several different options when it came to getting to Split. From there we could have taken the night train, a bus or rented a car and drove ourselves the 4 hours from Zagreb to Split. We chose the latter. We figured we would get there quicker by driving and maybe even be able to see some nice scenery on the trip down. Well, with our train pulling into the station a little after 4pm and us getting lost, as usual, on the way to the car rental agency, there was no scenery to be seen on our drive because it was dark by the time we got on the road. But, then again, that was just the beginning of our adventure to Split.....

Growing up in Southern California, I'll admit I have not been through many true rain storms. Certainly not the type Jason had experienced growing up in Texas. But the storm we encountered the entire drive to Split was a completely new experience for the both of us. The rain was coming down so hard, not to mention sideways, that you could barely see infront of you. The lightning was so bright it was like someone was in your face with a camera taking your picture. I was blinking spots after each time it hit. Then came the wind. The type of wind that makes you grip onto the steering wheel just to keep the car on the road. Or at least I am assuming that is what Jason was doing since he was the one driving. I know I was white knuckling the door handle. I had not been that scared in quite awhile. I was thanking my lucky stars when we finally pulled into Split. Now we just had to find our Sobe (a room you rent out of someone's house). If only we knew what was still in store for us, we would have known our night was far from over..

We tried to be prepared. We had the map in the guide book. Jason had saved two different maps from the internet onto his computer. We thought it would be somewhat easy. Little did we realize that Split's old palace is smack dab in the middle of the city so getting from one side of town to the other is not the easiest of tasks, especially at night, in the rain, with poor signage and streets that run every which way. After about an hour of driving around and stopping several times to ask for help, we ended up on the narrowest street I have ever seen. With just inches of room on either side of the car, we barely squeaked down roads between old houses only to come to a dead end. Well, it wasn't so much as a dead end, but there was a car parked infront of us that we couldn't get by. Yup, you guessed it...We had to reverse back up the narrow street which was on a bit of an incline. After a minor breakdown by me (it had been a long night!), some “tough love” from Jason, I rolled down my window, stuck my head out in the rain and made sure we didn't have to make use of our extra rental car insurance. You should have smelt the smoke coming from the clutch of our manuel car. Glad it was a rental. When we finally got out of that lovely situation, we called the people who were renting us our room. Why we didn't do that earlier don't ask us. It turned out that we were right around the corner. We happily parked the car and went and found our room. I'll admit that the room was not the greatest. It was very small with two tiny twin beds. But we were soaked and tired and all we cared about was getting some sleep.

The next morning we woke up early to lots of men talking, things banging and cigarette smoke wafting into our room from outside. I went out to find a full construction zone right outside in the backyard of where we were staying. How we missed that the night before somewhat confused us. We later realized towels had been hung up on a line to hide it from others. They were in the process of building a new kitchen and at that moment it was just a big hole in the ground with men shoveling dirt. Once we showered and got ready for the day, the son of the woman who owned the house we were staying in insisted we change rooms. The room we were currently in shared a kitchen and bathroom and everyone was going in and out. The other room was much more private and we now had our own bathroom, kitchen and sitting room. It was no less quiet in the morning but it was much bigger for the same price so we were satisfied.

The main sight to see in Split is the Diocletian's Palace. Originally built as a retirement palace for a Roman emperor, in the middle ages the nobility and rich merchants built their residences within the old palace walls. Houses and shops are still built within the old walls today, sometimes right into the side of the palace itself. At one point you are down in a basement imagining what it used to look like and then you walk through an archway and you are in the middle of the palace courtyard surrounded by homes and stores. It is quite amazing to see. As one of the most imposing Roman ruins in existence, it's walls measure 215 meters from east to west and 181 meters wide at the southernmost point. Although the majority of the palace lays in ruins, it can be explored for a small fee.

We were only going to stay one full day in Split but decided to extend it when we heard about taking a day trip to the island of Hvar. Hvar is a resort island 3 hours by ferry from Split. Warning: The 3 hour ferry is somewhat painful! Seeing as it was just too cold to sit outside on the deck, we were forced inside. With all the cigarette smoke, all they needed was a dj, bartender and a disco ball and it would have been the perfect nightclub. :)

In the height of summer, it is reportedly packed with vacationing and honeymooning tourists, but with the season over we found ourselves strolling along the shores of our own private island. A hand full of shops and cafes were still open but the resorts and tourists hotels were empty.

Perched at the top of the hill is an old Venetian fortress. Several hundred steps later, we found ourselves overlooking the entire island. The fortress is open to the public (for a fee), but we figured the journey to get there was just as breathtaking as anything inside. The signs promoting the coffee bar and nightclub inside the fortress further convinced us that our 7 euros could be spent better elsewhere.

In the quiet town of Hvar, we had to make our own fun. We bought some food from the grocery store and had a picnic by the water. We then spent the rest of the time strolling along the beach and having tea until it was time to hop on the bus back to the ferry. We enjoyed Hvar. And I am sure it is even more wonderful during tourist season when it is beach weather and you can rent a boat for the day.

Split turned out to be the cutest town at night. With all the tiny windy streets so brightly lit, you almost felt like it was still daylight out. All the stores remain open late and lots of people are out and about milling around. It was nice just to wander the streets not knowing what surprise you'll find around the next corner because getting lost is something that is certainly bound to happen. It was a nice atmosphere to submerge ourselves in. We didn't feel as though we needed to be in a cafe or bar to feel social. We were happy enough just to walk around in amongst all the locals.

Split ended up being nice surprise for us. We only booked two nights there with one full day to wander around. Seeing as there was not much in our guide book about it we didn't think we'd need much time there. But after one day we decided we needed more time there. Walking around alone was satisfying enough and I almost couldn't get enough of it. Especially with half the town being built into the old palace ruins. Plus the day trip to Hvar was a great get away from the hustle and bustle. If we had been there in a warmer month, many more days would have been needed so we could have enjoyed the beautiful beaches Hvar had to offer. I think this is a place we would definitely like to come back to in the summer months.

Angela & Jason

Bled, Slovenia: A pretty town, a not so pretty name

Thu, 15 Nov 2007 22:00:00 GMT

About an hour's drive from Ljubljana, the small capital of Slovenia, lies the picturesque fairytale town of Bled. Despite the ominous name, the town is almost as picture perfect as one can image. Bled is best known as the home of idyllic Lake Bled with its tiny island (Blejski Otok) from which stands the old Church of the Assumption. Orginally built for the Bishop of Brixton, the island and the church have become the symbol of the Bled and draw tourists to what looks to be a Disney-like landscape. Rounding out the panorama high above the lake on 100 meter sheer cliffs lies Bled Castle.

Although we could have taken the train from Ljubljana, we instead opted to rent a car. For $30 USD a day, it seemed to be the better option. Much of the area is spread out and having our own car was the unanimously recommended approach. Dropping off our gear at our hotel just outside of town, we headed to the supermarket to pack a picnic lunch and we were off to the lake. Sitting on a park bench enjoying the beautiful view in front of us was just about perfect. There was no need to worry about picnic leftovers as we were soon surrounded by a flock of ducks and a handful of swans. After an hour or so, we thought we'd head out to the church on the tiny island. There are two ways to get to the island, you can hop on a gondola and enjoy a leisurely ride out to the island or you can rent a row boat and get yourself out there. We opted for the do it yourself option. We figured it would be more of an experience, and it was. Although it seemed like we were hardly moving in our little dingy and we'd never make it to the island, it really only took us 30 minutes each way. But I must admit, in the middle of the lake, the blackness of the water was a bit spooky. But for the person who'se not rowing, it make for a prety leisurely ride! The island itself was nice and quaint, but after half an hour or so, we were ready to hop back in the boat for a little more sea-faring fun. This time it was Angela's turn to do all the dirty work while I relax.

Walking along the lake after our aquatic adventure, a moment I had been waiting for my entire life finally arrived. It was my big break!!!! Ok, it was our big break. A travel journalist working on a story about Bled stopped us and asked it she could take a few candid pictures of us walking by for her article. We were fabulous!!!! As we strolled by, I reached over to hold Angela's hand. Man, did the photographer love it. “Nice Touch”, she said. We're going to be famous so watch out for us in next months issue of .... uh... um... Shoot, we forgot to ask what magazine she wrote for. Oh well. Better luck next time.

The next day we hopped in our car and after more than a few wrong turns we mode our way to the Vintgar Gorge. Discovered in the 1800's, the Vintgar Gorge provides an amazingly beautiful hike along the River Radovna that's carved its way through the hillside outside of Bled. The highlight is the century old wooden walkway which crisscrosses over the river. At some places the river is very calm, other places it's rushing below your feet. The hike ends at the somewhat anti-climactic Sum Waterfall. The walk along the gorge was much more enjoyable than the waterfall. Although much colder than we expected, with the trees changing colors, it was absolutely amazing! Sometimes the journey truly is more impressive than the destination.

After another picnic lunch, this time on our B&B patio, we thought we'd keep with the active theme of the day. Since our B&B provided free bikes, we picked the two in the best condition and set off for a leisurely bike ride around Lake Bled. Unfortunately, our B&B was on one side of the town of Bled, the lake was on the other and in between was a hill that we significantly underestimated. Previously driving our car to and from each time we hadn't realized, but now on our bikes, we had a bit of a workout in store for us. Once down the other side of the hill the ride around the lake proved to be very easy and extremely enjoyable. Now we just had to get back to our B&B. A little exercise never hurt anyone right?!

A great way to top off our jam packed day of activites was a dip in the indoor thermal pools at the posh Golf Hotel. With three pools, 2 jacuzzis and a water slide, we were in for a little R&R. For only 7 Euros, you can use the naturally feed thermal pools for up to 3 hours. What a bargin after a long day of hiking and biking!

Our two days in Bled were a great escape from all the big cities we've been to in the past couple of months. We had been craving a little nature, and Bled definitely satisfied it. With the serene environment of Lake Bled, one could sit for hours watiching the people and ducks go by, or you could opt for the more physical activities of rowing to the island, riding a bike or hiking along the gorge. Some may think of Bled as a nice side trip when visiting Ljubljana, but for us, it was the highlight of our short stay in Slovenia.

Jason and Angela

Ljubljana, Slovenia: A visit to the smallest capital in Europe

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:00:00 GMT

In planning our trip around the world, we left home with a rough idea of where we were going and when we thought we'd be there. What we didn't necessarily take into account is how we'd get there. Fortunately so far this hasn't caused us too much difficulty...yet. However, we did become a bit concerned when planning our trip from Prague to Slovenia. Out of the blue, it dawned on us that we'd have to cross the Alps. What could have been a brutal and expensive journey luckily turned into one of the highlights of our trip. Leaving Prague at the crack of dawn we boarded our train to the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana, pronounced “Loo-be-anna”. The foothills and mountains of the Julian Alps in the fall are absolutely beautiful. Growing up in Texas and California, we don't often get the opportunity to see the bright orange and red colored leaves that signal the coming of winter. Whisking through the mountains by train, however, didn't make for good photos. Sorry! Guess you'll just have to do it yourself. :)

Prior to 1991, Slovenia, along with Croatia, Montenegro, Serbia, Albania, and Bosnia, made up what was once Yugoslavia. The breakup of the once communist state has produced regions of tension (most notably between Serbia and Bosnia) and tourism, as the countries that hug the Adriatic Sea have become popular vacation destinations.

Slovenia's capital, Ljubljana, is one of the smallest capital cities in Europe and judging by our arrival on a Saturday afternoon after the end of the tourist season, it could have very well been one of the smallest capital cities in the world. Making our way from the train station to our hostel in the center of town was like walking through a ghost town. With hardly a soul in sight, we questioned whether we had made the right choice in destinations. Even our hostel seemed empty, but that was about to change! Dropping our bags at the desk while being checked in by the nice lady who ran the place, we were immediately acausted by a familiar voice making a disparaging remark about American tourists. Turning around, we found our Australian friend, Neil, standing before us in only a towel. Having met Neil and Tom back in our hostel in Estonia, it was nice to see a familiar face. With Ljubljana being rather quiet, it was a welcome surprise to see a familiar face.

It turns out that our friends had been in Ljubljana for a almost a week and had the town figured out. After traveling for almost four months, it's really nice when you don't have to figure out everything from scratch. We all went to a little hole-in-the-wall restaurant around the corner that they recommended. If you like meat, I'd have to recommend the Slovenian “mixed grill”. Consisting of meat, meat, and more meat, it seems like most local restaurants serve it. It was great, but I may be in need of a triple bypass in the near future.

After dinner, we planned on going to Global, one of the hottest clubs in town, but it was closed. Apparently, only a few days before, a bouncer at the door had accidentally killed a kid. The details were a little fuzzy but a huge vigil of candles had been placed in front of the entrance. Although very sad, it was interesting to see. I don't think the public would come together and show their support like this back in Los Angeles. Instead we ended up at what the Aussies kept referring to, oddly enough, as the cocktail bar, but to our surprise it was actually called the “Cocktail Bar”. After a couple of drinks, we headed back. My lingering cough from my 'Prague cold' was getting worse and the cold night air and not to mention alcohol, probably wasn't helping.

The next morning we got a taste of what Ljubljana is really like. With cafes lining the river that snakes through town, it seemed like just about everybody was out enjoying the sun. Either sitting leisurely having coffee or perusing the crafts and “antique” market, the town's people were out and about. Stopping for gelato, we acted like locals and enjoying our morning stroll along the river's banks. After some great Indian food, yes Indian food in Slovenia, we joined our Australian friends for a little American football in one of the local pubs.

Saying goodbye to them for the last time, we think, we headed for Tivoli Park. Seeing as today is our two year anniversary, Angela had a romantic day instore for us. Set in the hills just on the north side of town, we quickly found ourselves lost in network of hiking trails. Walking through the woods it was easy to forget that a nation's capital was just over the hill.

And then there was the horse burger. Yep, a little known delicacy in Ljubljana is a hamburger made from horse meat. Never one to shy away from something a bit weird, I had to have one. In all honesty, it wasn't that bad.... wasn't that good... but not that bad. It tasted just like any other fast food hamburger. Actually, the best part of the entire thing was the huge fresh baked bun that it came on.

Later that afternoon we hopped on a train for the small town of Kamnik. Angela had read about an old deserted castle that was supposed to have fantastic sunset views. According to our trusty guide book, the castle was an easy 100 meter walk from the train station. As the train pulled into Kamnik after the 45 minute ride, we couldn't help but notice a castle looking down on us from its perch high above the town. Dismissing it as just another castle, we set out looking for the one our guide book told us about. We should have known better. We asked at the local tourist center, and sure enough, we had a 45 minute hike straight up the mountain in store for us. Damn guidebook was wrong once again and Angela wasn't happy about it. With only a half hour until sunset, we had to hoof it. The hike was actually pretty nice. It winds though the brush on a nicely marked trail past trickling streams and curiously placed gnomes. It wasn't until the very top that the path went cold and we were forced to forge ahead. After all, there could only be one direction. UP! We arrived just before sunset. Whew! The sunset was amazing and the hike was well worth it. Only moments after the sun set, we were back on the trail racing down the mountain before darkness. Needless to say, going down hill was much more fun than going up.

When we first arrived in Ljubljana, I set my expectations pretty low. But after meeting up with unexpected friends, enjoying the river banks, hiking in the parks, and climbing to a castle for an amazing sunset, our visit to the small capital city turned out to be much better than I expected.

Jason and Angela

Prague, Czech Republic: City of 1,000 spires

Sat, 03 Nov 2007 22:00:00 GMT

Prague was one of the two places I was most looking forward to on this trip, Greece being the second. Not that I actually knew much about it. I had just seen photos and it looked amazing. Jason, on the other hand, had been to Prague a few times already. I kept imaging what a view we would get to see upon arriving since it is the “City With 1000 Spires” but coming in on the night train from Krakow, we didn't really get to see much. Between it being dark most of the way and being sleepy upon arriving, it took me a second to realize I was finally in Prague!

For the past couple of months we had been staying only in hostels but this time we opted for a shared apartment. The hostels were much more expensive in Prague and we actually got a better deal on our shared apartment which came with a kitchen inside of the room. Having the kitchen in our room proved to be a blessing since we seemed to both be coming down with colds and the quiet time was nice as opposed to having to fight over a shared kitchen in a hostel. So unfortunately the first few days in Prague were spent mostly inside, taking it easy, trying not to get worse.

Upon arrival, when we finally found our apartment, also a fun task after a night of little to no sleep, we put our stuff down, cleaned up a little and raced to the Indian embassy before noon, the time they stop taking visa applications. India is one of the countries Americans must have a visa for before entering. After much research on the internet we realized it is something more easily accomplished back home. Oops, too late! Since India had an embassy in Prague, we figured it was the perfect place to be while waiting the expected 7 business days, with a weekend or two in between, required for processing.

With Jason being a bit more under the weather than was, I went on a few walks by myself the first couple of days. Being together basically 24/7, a little alone time for the both of us was not a bad idea. Not to mention a great way for me to get to know the city I had anticipated visiting for so long. I logged a lot of miles that afternoon. I ventured everywhere and was so content. I was soon going to learn that Prague was not only the City of 1000 Spires but the city of 100 Views of every angle. It was wonderful. I found a random set of stairs and at the top was a huge park sprawled out above the Vltava River overlooking the whole city. I had brought my book to sit and read buy decided I needed to wander more, I had not soaked in enough of the city yet. I eventually found myself in a cute courtyard where I bought a steaming cup of mulled wine and sat and read for awhile. By the time I made it back to the room my feet were killing me... something that was going to happen often while I was in Prague.

The first day we actually ventured out to sight see together we bought the “Prague Card.” Many cities have started selling these cards that get you into a ton of places (museums, towers, tours, etc.) for a discount if not mostly for free. Sometimes they are useful and sometimes they are not. It really depends on what they offer with the card and what you plan on doing. We've realized that traveling for so long tends to make us a little more lazy as opposed to the gung ho sightseers we used to be! These cards helps get us up and out and about a bit more. Prague proved to be one of those places.

One place the card took us which we probably never would have gone to had we not bought it was Vysehrad. It is only a metro ride away but it takes you outside the hustle and bustle of all the tourists. Vysehrad is a hilltop fortress perched on a cliff overlooking the Vltava river. It's biggest attraction is the Peter & Paul Church. It also has a few museums and it is great to just walk along the walls high above the city. Our favorite thing that we did not see advertised anywhere (thanks Prague Card!) was the walk you could take through the Casemates. They took you into the castle walls which were dark, cramped, spooky and just downright cool! The walk ended at this huge room where they used to keep supplies and ammunition which holds 6 of the original statues, now replaced by replicas, from the Charles Bridge.

Prague has been described by many to have a wild and crazy nightlife. Our first night in town was a Friday night. Although not feeling 100 percent we at least wanted to get out, have a drink and feel social, but every place we walked by seemed pretty quiet. Although the town square was always full of people, they were all most certainly tourists buying overpriced beer. Not really the place we wanted to hang out at. We finally came across a pub around the corner that was pretty full and figured it was better than nothing. Unfortunately, the night never really picked up. It was around 9pm so maybe the nightlife starts later here but we would have thought at least the bars would have people in them getting ready for their evening. Not so.

We had made friends with our neighbors and went out with them the night before they left. They had been out every night till 4 or 5 so Jason and I figured they could show us where to go out. I had heard that seeing the sunrise on the Charles Bridge was amazing and I wanted to do it. The first bar we went to was pretty full since they had a live show going on downstairs, but by midnight we were about the only ones left. Jason and I had seen a club down by the Charles Bridge that said it was open 24 hours so we thought we'd check that out. We walked in and the bartender told us they were closed. Ok.........we wandered a little and asked ourselves “Where is everybody?” The streets were so quiet. So we finally went back to our apartment. No sunrise over the Charles Bridge for me. If this crazy nightlife does exist in Prague then someone please email me and tell me where! Anyhooooo, the last night in Prague we went to a different part of town for dinner that we had not come across yet. It turned out to be the cutest little area full of bars and restaurants all packed with people. And it was right around the corner from our apartment only we had been walking the opposite way everyday. If only we had found it sooner. It looked like a great place to spend the evening.

An extremely random thing happened to us while in Prague which just proves how small the world really is. While walking down the street we ran into a guy who we had met in Riga, Latvia a couple of weeks before. We both had no idea the other would be in Prague. We ended up spending the rest of the day with him and another guy he had met at his hostel. He told us about this Free Prague Walking tour he was going to go on the next day so we figured we'd join him. For those of you going to Prague anytime soon, here's the info because we were skeptical at first. What in the world is ever free? Especially a tour. You meet in front of the Town Hall at 10:30am. We were told the tour is everyday. We waited under the Astronomical Clock. No one was there at 10:30, not even our friend. We thought maybe he was getting back at us for leaving Sigulda (check our Riga blog) a day early when he was going to be there. Finally he showed and 15 minutes later here came the group of people following a girl carrying a “Free Prague Walking Tour” sign. They must have met around the corner but all tours end up at the Astronomical Clock at some point so it's a safe bet to wait there. The girl who led the tour was great. She was very knowledgeable in the different kinds of architecture. We walked all over the city and she pointed out things you would never see on your own. She taught us to always look up while walking around. Walking along cobblestone you tend to look at your feet a lot but it's amazing the things you can miss. She pointed out random statues hanging over the sides of buildings, the various types of architecture from different eras and buildings where the original facade was showing through peeling paint that had been put over it many many years ago. Four hours later we ended up leaving the tour because we were hungry and actually pretty tired, we had covered some serious ground. It is definitely worth the tip you should give her at the end of the tour and the crick in your neck you will have the rest of the trip wanting to find these little treasures on your own!

We were surprised at how many people were in Prague since it is near the end of tourist season and not to mention it was just down right cold. A nice way we found to take the chill away is to partake in the Gluhwein, or mulled wine, that is sold in the Town Square. If you are noshy then they also sell these freshly made pastry things. I have no idea what they were called. but the sell them to you fresh out of the oven. Take your gluhwein and snack and find a bench to watch all of the people go by. It's a great way to warm up and pass the time.

The city of Prague just took my breath away. I really cannot explain why but I just knew when I was out in the city, especially near the river, I was at peace. The Charles Bridge is awe inspiring. The bridge has a long long history but that history has left us with an architectural wonder decorated with 30 statues and statuaries all erected around 1700. I highly recommend a walk along the bridge somewhere around sunset if not after. It is very highly touristed and the bridge is better enjoyed with a little peace and quiet. If you're on the bridge after dark, or any bridge nearby for that matter, you can enjoy the view of the Prague Castle which is lit up beautifully at night. I'll have to be honest, I was a little disappointed in the Prague Castle. You hear the word castle and you think big huge building built of stone usually up on a hill. The Prague castle was more like a town built on a hill, which I understand most of them are just that. But still, I was not impressed when walking around , but from afar it is extremely impressive.

We stayed in Prague 8 days but I could have stayed there much longer. Anywhere you went took you to a viewpoint where you could over look the city. Of course there are the typical towers you could pay to climb up (free with the Prague Card!) and see the city lying in front of you, but there are more than enough free viewpoints if you know where to look or have the right guide book to tell you. But alas, our visas to India were ready 3 days early (a little to my dismay) and it was time to move on. I will definitely be coming back to Prague as soon as I can!

Angela & Jason

Krakow, Poland: Five days in Poland

Mon, 22 Oct 2007 22:00:00 GMT

We had long been debating on whether or not Warsaw was going to make it as a destination on our journey through Poland but after asking both “locals” and fellow travelers, we decided to pass and head straight to Krakow from Vilnius. Despite the 15 hour bus ride, I was a bit relieved to be going somewhere familiar. I had been to Krakow a few years ago and was looking forward to a nice and easy couple of days. Plus, I knew Angela would love it.

Although familiar with the city, our adventure began just before we arrived. It seems that I may have been here more times than even our bus driver. He could see the bus station, but for some reason, he just couldn't seem to figure out which road to take to get there. We must have circled it three times before a fellow passenger made his way to the front of the bus to tell him how to get to where we needed to be.

Exiting the bus station, the directions to our hostel seemed pretty straight forward... 'exit the station, cross the street, take tram number “whatever” four stops and there you are' or so we thought. Four stops later, we look out the window and knowing that this can't be the correct stop, we stay on for one more. Well, that didn't help. We get off, look around, try to find ourselves on a map that's printed on the back of a brochure. As usual, we're lost. Time to start walking. We finally stop to ask a local where we are and she wasn't even sure. After a few minutes of staring at our map, she points to the opposite side of the city from where we wanted to be. Apparently, it's pretty important that you get on the tram going the right direction. They seemed to have left that part out of the instructions.

Anywho... back on the tram and now 8 stops later back in the opposite direction, we find our hostel. We had booked a room at Premium Hostel. They claim that they have hotel amenities with hostel prices. Sounded good to us. The location wasn't bad and the rooms were nice but it had the same social atmosphere of a hotel... NONE! After a pretty long day (and night) of traveling, we opted for the supermarket down the street and a little R&R in the evening. We were beat.

The next morning we headed out to explore the city. The old town of Krakow is beautifully surrounded by a network of parks conveniently enough called the Planty (because of all the plants, we assume). Walking around the Planty, we passed the largest surviving city gate, the Barbican, and made our way in. Passing through the gate seemed as though you were going back in time. From the relatively modern new town, you immediately pass onto cobblestoned streets lined with shops of all sorts. If it weren't for the McDonalds perched at the first corner and all the tourists with their digital cameras (us included), it might have been a bit more convincing.

Making our way to the main square, we passed by several old ladies selling loops of bread from little wooden carts. For a mere 1.20 Zloty (50 cents), they were a bargain. Needless to say, we had several. It would eventually become a bit of a game as we'd search out who had the bread with the garlic sprinkles.

At 200 square meters, the main town square in Krakow is one of the largest in Europe. Although very pretty and amazingly well preserved, it appears that the favorite pastime of the locals and tourists alike is people-watching while having a drink at one of the many sidewalk cafes. Other than that, there isn't really a whole lot to really do there other than visit the church, climb the tower of the old city hall, and peruse the souvenir shops in the Old Cloth Market. Finding a seat at one of the cafes even in the off season can be difficult. After wandering around the square for a while, we decided to grab a couple of available seats for a relaxing drink. We couldn't have picked a worse place. The waiter walks up wearing some ridiculous cowboy outfit and hands us two laminated menus for the “Souix Indian” restaurant. We were in tourist hell... but we had a seat, so we ordered anyway. After our drink, it was time to head back to the hostel to make a little dinner. Like many other cities in Europe, the old town square has become a bit of a tourist trap with over priced food and drinks. Go there, take a look around, grab a drink and watch the crowds, but spend your time in Krakow elsewhere. We did.

The next morning was to be a pretty intense day. We were off to Auschwitz and Birkenau, two of the largest and most infamous of all the Nazi concentration camps. Having driven there on my previous trip to Krakow, we opted for the bus as it is much simpler. For only 14 zloty, you can take one of several buses from the main bus station to Oswiecim (Auschwitz is the German name that the Nazis gave the town after the invasion). The bus took about an hour and a half. The only trick was to not get off at the Oswiecim stop as the bus will take you all the way to the actual concentration camp and museum – the next stop. To try to describe the feeling one gets while at Auschwitz is almost impossible. With estimates of up to 1.5 million people murdered there within a 5 year period, it is almost incomprehensible what occurred there. Auschwitz was originally a Polish military base that after the war became a museum to the holocaust and the remaining barracks have become part of the exhibit displaying mountains of clothing, luggage, eye glasses, and even a room full of human hair. The shear quantity of items taken from those killed during the war is astonishing. Although the museum at Auschwitz does a spectacular job educating you on the holocaust, the often overlooked Birkenau concentration camp, 1.5 miles away, can be even more horrifying. Birkenau, also called Auschwitz II, is where most of the Jews and political prisoners were first taken for selection. Those that could work remained alive, those that could not, namely women and children, were sent directly to the crematoriums. All that remains today is the all too familiar front gates, the train platform, a handful of wooden and brick barracks and the remains of the gas chambers that were destroyed by the retreating Nazi army. Walking around the grounds late in the evening, the crowds of tourists and school children that we had a Auschwitz I were gone. We found Birkenau to be virtually empty. With the beautiful blue sky and almost no noise what so ever, the grounds of the camp take on a very errie and ominous feeling. To believe that so many lives were lost here is almost unthinkable, but to believe, as some still do, that the holocaust never occurred is unfathomable. Even if you think you can't handle the intensity, Auschwitz is a place everyone must go while visiting Krakow.

Hoping to find accommodation with a bit more character and atmosphere and because our hostel was booked for the next couple of nights, we moved down the street to Yellow Hostel. Yellow Hostel definitely had more character and characters than Premium. With a common room reminiscent of the 60's, this place was definitely more fun. The crowd was a bit younger and had a few odd balls in the group, but we were perfectly comfortable there.

Our next destination and one of the best known sites in Krakow was Wawel. Overlooking the city from atop a hill, Wawel used to be the residence of Poland's king until the 17th century when the capital was moved to Warsaw. We found that although you could buy tickets to individual museums, monuments, and cathedrals at Wawel, simply wandering the grounds and enjoying the views of the river and the city below was plenty and made for a nice and relaxing afternoon.

On our forth day, we decided to take yet another bus, this time to the Salt Mines of Wieliczka. In the middle ages, Salt was as valuable then as oil is today. This made Poland one of the richest places in the world. The chambers and tunnels of the Wieliczka salt mines stretch for 300 kilometers (yes, 180 miles) and go more than 1000 feet underground. Joining a three hour tour (the only way you can see the mines), we were lead down 380 stairs into a weird and wonderful underworld. Below the surface are sculptures, an amazing ballroom and even an art museum constructed entirely of salt. It is definitely a half day trip worth taking.

Our last day in Krakow was spent roaming around town. Seeing as we were taking the night train to Prague, we had quite a long day ahead of us. We went down to Kazmirez, the Jewish quarter, which is full of cute bars and restaurants. But today we were on another mission in Kazmirez......Zappikonkas. Zappikonkas are almost like a french bread pizza but twice as long and topped with anything you could possibly imagine. And of course, following with the European tradition, slathered in mayonnaise only if you choose. Which most do from what I saw. But we had been told, more that once, that the best Zappikonkas were at this one stand in the middle of Plac Nowy (New Square) in Kazmirez and seeing as we did not have much on our agenda, we happily strolled on down there. They definitely lived up to all the hype.

Krakow is definitely backpacker friendly. With kebab and zappikonka stands at every corner you are assured you can eat cheaply while there. Hostels are just as plentiful. Our private double room was pretty cheap so I can only imagine how budget friendly the dorms must be. There is plenty to do and see in Krakow. It is a wonderful town just to stroll around with the parks all along the outer walls and the great architecture inside the walls. At night the town square comes alive with street performers. Enjoy a night of cheap drinking in Kazmirez and you are sure not to have broken the bank. Use the money you have saved for a trip to Auschwitz and the Salt Mines and you will most certainly leave Krakow satisfied. I know we did.

Off to Prague........

Jason and Angela